Clerc joins the growing number of watch brands that are using silicium (silicon) in their movements. The most popular metal part to replace with silicium is the escapement. This is a small gear-like wheel that is connected to the balance wheel and is responsible for moving power to the movement. Silicium gives this part ultra high endurance and precision. The basically means that the part doesn't wear (like ever), doesn't need any lubrication, and is very consistent which leads to overall improvements in rate results in the movement (accuracy gains). Basically, technology permitting, silicium is more or less better than metal. Technology is not entirely permitting today, and may actually never be. Not because we can't do it, but needs of the watch industry alone are not enough to advance silicium research. That is in the hands of the computer industry - who might abandon silicon in the next several years in favor of something else. Anyhow, to make a long story short, silicium today works great in a few select watches but can't be mass produced without great expense, and has construction limitations.

There is also a smaller Malte model for women but I won't cover that here. The high complication version of the new Malte, is the Malte Tourbillon. The case here is slightly bigger due to the movement, and is 38mm wide by just over 48mm tall. It is also thicker and contains Vacheron Constantin's Calibre 2795 manually wound tourbillon movement. The great looking watch has a tourbillon window that looks massive due to the case design - but is no larger than on most other VC watches of today. The watch has an exposed caseback and the movement is as pretty as ever. Well integrated into the new Malte case, the Tourbillon is a strong looking high-complication watch with a relaxed personality.

I really do enjoy the design of the movement. It is very classic in form and execution with an emphasis on aesthetic and traditional decoration. On the mainspring barrel you'll find a hand-engraved "Eva Leube" logo. The question comes up for me "is it a woman's watch or a men's watch?" I don't actually know if it is either. I am inclined to place it in the "unisex" category - a category I dislike. There are three types of watches out there in my opinion. Men's watch, women's watches, and men's watches that a woman would be happy to wear. Though on occasion I have discovered a fourth category which is the always amusing "women's watch that certain men will wear."  In which does the Ari fall in to?

The ribbon style crown guard is a unique element which sometimes makes me think the Sportster Saguaro looks like one of those military pendants on a strap, on your wrist. Bovet offers no shortage of Sportster Saguaro case and dial styles. Pictured here are just a few of them. The cases are available in steel, 18k rose gold, as well as a few versions where PVD and gold are mixed to create some cool looks. Personally, I am a fan of black mixed with gold so these are some of my favorite models.

Chronological Time

Replica rolex

The movement of the LM1 is where MB&F wants you to focus most of your attention. The design of the movement was conceived by master watch movement architect Jean-François Mojon and his team. He worked closely with MB&F to bring to life the idea of having a large prominent balance wheel inspired by the golden-age of pocket watches. The balance wheel not only looks unique but is large being 14mm wide and running at the hypnotic rate of 18,000 bph. This slower rate allows you to really see it moving more clearly and appreciate the movement of the wheel on your wrist at all time. The balance wheel and escapement mechanism are mounted on two arches and use a Breguet overcoil and special regulation screws unique to the LM1 watch. While a different concept all together, the case and balance wheel design of the LM1 remind me of Bernhard Lederer's Gagarin Tourbillon watch.

On an uncommonly warm day in early October I visited a place few watch writers go - the manufacture (well one of them) of Dubois-Depraz. High-up in the mountainous region of Switzerland's famous Vallee de Joux the factory sits among many famous watch brands. Dubois-Depraz is a key cog in the watch industry you know and love, but they don't make watches.

High-Speed MOMO Design Time

1. Comment on this post below before the giveaway is over with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention whether you like decorative seconds hands that may have special shapes and logos on them, or simple more traditional seconds hands that may be less visually distracting.